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Soldering 'n sh!t


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#1 xs

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Posted 29 October 2014 - 10:26 AM

Weller or Hakko?

What is the secret to desoldering small parts on circuit boards? Patience and solder wick/sucker?

Should I bother with getting solder with 2% silver?
If the people come to believe that the government is no longer constrained by the laws then they will conclude that neither are they.

#2 dylan

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Posted 29 October 2014 - 01:58 PM

i'm no pro but i've always used wellers. i use a sucker to desolder. it works, i guess.


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#3 technodrive

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Posted 29 October 2014 - 02:46 PM

yeah i like the bulb suckers


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#4 marklar182

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 06:39 PM

I like Weller Handheld irons, but would much rather use our Hacko desoldering station for component removal.

 

If its for Surface mount components, I use Chip Quick and a hand held iron for removal, SMD can be a bitch in the field.

 

I frequent your area, I am in Hillsboro about 2 weeks a month lately!



#5 Samsquanch

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Posted 01 November 2014 - 06:58 PM

I use junk irons. I don't even remember where I bought my current one (Fry's maybe?), but I built a ... let's call it a hacker tool ... and my brother, who is a genuine, certified electronics repair man and has more hours on an iron than I ever will, said "Did you solder this? It looks like a machine did it."

So don't get hung up on the brand. It's more about the operator. But, that's just, like, my opinion, man.

Though I can't do surface mount for shit. He's tried to tell me how to do it, but I don't have the patience for it.
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#6 S-H-O_MASTER

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Posted 21 November 2014 - 01:49 AM

Weller stations/irons. Suckers are good for small amounts, but I soak up any larger solder joints with wick first. A blast of cold compressed air will blow it away clean usually, in a pinch. I flick the tip of my solder clean before it cools also, the little solder ball on the end can keep the flux from starting into the joint, so it needs to be heated longer.

I've done surface-mounted PLCC-2 (repair/color changes in instrument clusters, window switches, steering wheel control, etc) by hand, and attached leads to PLCC-6 (5050) for one of my daughter's costume projects. When I detach the factory LEDs, I usually just pull gently with a forcep or tweezer, and heat the joint a little at a time, until it lets go. Once the SMD is removed, getting the solder cleaned up is much easier. 


r7cq0g5.gif


#7 xs

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Posted 21 November 2014 - 12:12 PM

I have a bunch of cheap old circuit boards that I'm playing around with. I have a pile of Chinese LEDs, 6mm switches and dip switches now.
If the people come to believe that the government is no longer constrained by the laws then they will conclude that neither are they.

#8 ligo12

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 09:53 AM

I use junk irons.
Same boat. I bought a variable heat control one but my internal heat control fought it so I just use the iron digitally.

Still use a gas iron for every thing except 20+ pin chips but I finally learned solder is not the correct way to join wiring so it lives as a torch.

I've used a yas22a for 98% of my solder work since the car audio days in 95. First one lasted 14 years.
Screenshot_2015-01-27-22-27-22_zps9b8133

#9 MAV

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 05:45 PM

i have 300 ws2812b's on the way. gonna take my old computer speakers and arduino and make a visual boom box. 

X5A42t0.png

68aGYzHl.jpg


-hay shaddup you may learn something.

#10 MAV

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 05:48 PM

i have a weller variable and have used the wick for desoldering. 


-hay shaddup you may learn something.

#11 Samsquanch

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Posted 25 November 2014 - 07:36 PM

i have 300 ws2812b's on the way. gonna take my old computer speakers and arduino and make a visual boom box. 

I'm working on an LED project as well. My little one hates riding in the car after dark so I bought 100 3mm blue LEDs that I'm going to wire up to an Uno. I'm thinking 10 - 12 lights on the 6 PWM outputs that fade on and off, and then two rows that are either on or off so that the driver can see what she's doing in the mirror above her car seat. I have everything except the little 5 button thingie to control whether it's on, off, fading or whatever. I already have the code written, but I'll have to modify it once the button panel gets here as it's an analog and I'm using digital inputs for the buttons at the moment. I'll get pics of the thing once I get it all finished up.

Button thingie:
 
1823701-3.jpg
 
Also picked up this just for grins. It's a knock off Arduino, but for $35 I couldn't pass it up.
 
1941401-1.jpg
 
 
  • 1*UNO R3 board
  • 1*USB cable (53cm)
  • 1*Box
  • 10*3-pin sensor wires (21cm)
  • 1*Pin header
  • 1*Piranha LED light module
  • 1*Straw hat LED light module
  • 1*Key module
  • 1*Ball switch module
  • 1*Buzzer module
  • 1*Passive buzzer module
  • 1*Knock sensor
  • 1*Vibration sensor
  • 1*Light sensor
  • 1*Analog temperature sensor
  • 1*IR receiver sensor module
  • 1*Infrared transmitter module
  • 1*DS18B20 temperature sensor
  • 1*LM35 temperature sensor
  • 1*MQ-2 gas sensor
  • 1*MQ-3 alcohol sensor
  • 1*Potentiometer module
  • 1*Crash sensor
  • 1*Sound sensor
 </p></p>
 
Arduinos are pretty awesome.
Owning a handgun doesn't make you armed any more than owning a guitar makes you a musician.

#12 Samsquanch

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Posted 11 December 2014 - 07:24 PM

Built my first vaping mod yesterday. Unregulated dual 18650 box mod.  Work fine. Last long time. Won't rust, bust or collect dust.

 

Attached File  boxmod.jpg   83.65K   1 downloads

 

I will change several things in v2.0


Owning a handgun doesn't make you armed any more than owning a guitar makes you a musician.

#13 Samsquanch

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Posted 24 December 2014 - 04:36 PM

Version two.
 
20141224_161112.jpg
 
 
20141224_161147.jpg
 
I swapped out the mini-auto fuses for "resettable" fuses, and removed the master on/off switch. The button has a long enough throw that it would be pretty hard to fire it accidentally unless you're just being careless.

I also added a voit meter so I can watch this thing suck batteries dry.
 
20141224_153209.jpg
 
That's an infinite CLT2 ( https://originvape.c...inite-clt2-rda/ ) at 0.154 ohms. 4x28AWG tristed, flattened and then wrapped 5/6. I tried 8/9 to get the ohms up, but the coils took forever to heat up.
 
The vapor production on this thing is ridiculous. I can't vape in the house anymore because it just fogs up the room.
 
Sean - I recently replaced my old iron (I lost it in the move somehow) with this one: http://www.amazon.co...uct/B00MCVCHJM/ It's a fine little rig.
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#14 xs

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Posted 24 December 2014 - 05:19 PM

Oh wow. That is cheap.
If the people come to believe that the government is no longer constrained by the laws then they will conclude that neither are they.




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